Friday, April 16, 2010

Berlin day 2 - Trip day 9

Ah, the weather is beautiful here today, although with the wind it is a bit cold. It is partly sunny and 54 degrees, and a steady wind blowing. Today we made several stops around the city.

We started with the last remaining memorial to the Wall, which is complete with both walls and the dead zone.
To get there we braved our first tram ride! The trams and bus routes here are tough to figure out, even for a Berliner. The S & U Bahn are much easier, but not as nice as the system in Munich. We only had about a mile to go, so we looked at the route signs at the bus stop and figured out which bus or tram to take. The fare is included in the S & U Bahn tickets we already have. We had several stops we wanted to make today, so we figured we would cut down on the walking as much as possible.


We went to the Wall Memorial at Bernauer Strasse and Acker Strasse. This was a particularly controversial portion of the wall as it cut a neighborhood in half, and resulted in the demolition of homes, the moving of a cemetery and the demolition of a church. There is a wall outside with documentation and photographs, and on the other side of the street is a documentation center with a platform you can climb for an aerial view of the Wall zone.




Next we headed one stop south on the S Bahn to the New Synagogue. Only the dome and the facade have been restored. Before the war, this was the largest and finest Synagogue in Berlin. It was first burned and desecrated by the Nazi's on Crystal Night in 1938 (You have probably seen video of this event), then bombed in 1943, and partially rebuilt in 1990. From the Dome there is a great view of the Berlin skyline.







Next on the stop today was the Brandenburger Tor, Pariser Platz and a walk down the Under den Linden Strasse.We visited here on our last trip, but this area is always worth another visit. This is the 'main street' of Berlin, with all the foreign embassies and high end retailers lining the street, including Ferrari. We even stopped into a Starbucks to get out of the wind and have a latte and rest for a minute. I know.... but it is conveniently there in Pariser Platz. There is also a handy tourist Information office here that is good to get updated maps and other info.

We paid a visit to the "Room of Silence" in the Brandenburg Gate. It is a small, quiet, non denominational room that is meant for solitude, and thinking. There were 3 other older German women in the room, obviously very much in deep thoughts. There is an attendant, are pamphlets for a variety of languages that describe the purpose of the room. The pamphlet quotes a prayer of the United Nations, "Oh Lord, our planet Earth is only a small star in space. It is our duty, to transform it into a planet whose creatures are no longer tormented by war, hunger and fear, no longer senselessly divided by race, colour and ideology. Give us courage and strength to begin this task today so that our children and children's children shall one day carry the name of man with pride." We paid our respects for a few moments, and then went on our way.



Right over Pat's head in the picture above is the famous upscale Hotel Adlon. You might remember Michael Jackson dangling his baby from the balcony. It is directly on Pariser Platz, only 100 yards from the Brandenburger Tor.

Next we walked down Under den Linden towards Bebel Platz. On the way we caught this great view of the Berlin Dom in front of the DDR tower.


Bebel Platz is another historic site. It is a square built by Frederick the Great, who ruled from 1740 - 1786. This square was the center of the "New Rome" he envisioned. It was in this square in 1933 that staff and students from the University threw 20,000 newly forbidden books into a huge bonfire on the orders of the Nazi propaganda minister Joseph Goebbels. You have probably seen video footage of that event. In the middle of the square is a window that looks down in a room of empty bookshelves, as a memorial to the Nazi book burning.  There is also a memorial plaque with a quote from the German Jewish philosopher Heinrich Heine. In 1820, he said, "When you start by burning books, you'll end by burning people." His books were among the books that were burned that night. As a side note, we noticed there is a street and U-Bahn station here named after Heinrich Heine. I thought that was interesting. Do a Google search to find out which books have been banned in various places in the USA........





The above picture I had to take with the words upside down to me. The plaque is in the ground, but the direction of the sun made a normal picture not readable. So I stood on the other side of the plaque and took the picture upside down, and then rotated the picture. Unfortunately this makes it look like the plaque is on a wall instead of on the ground. :-)

OK - That is enough for today. Bebel platz is in the middle of a section of Under den Linden where there is no S or U Bahn anywhere near. So we looked for a bus sign and took the next bus to Alexander Platz, where the DDR TV Tower is. From there it was easy to get a U Bahn back to the apartment. Just for fun, here is an example of the graffiti art in the section of Berlin we are staying in. We believe it says "We remain always".


Ah, back in the apartment and we are drinking some good cold German beer, and making Pat's famous French onion soup. It smells like we are home, only a different view out the window, and German programs on the television. :-)

Tschuss!

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